Zest for Life:Tete-a-tete with Durva Gandhi: Durva's Travel Diaries: In Bhutan, the land of the Lamas, magic still lives!!!

When asked about her most memorable travel experiences, Durva shared these snippets recollecting every bit of it, going back in time.

Bhutan has rated high on my list of holiday destinations. And so on this birthday, I decided to take off on a one week luxury escapade to the land of the Lamas. My expectations were tempered down right at the Mumbai international airport, when I exchanged notes on Bhutan with Rahul Bose.

My itinerary begins with a day well spent at the Taj Bengal. Taj Bengal has been a sort of second home for me on business and leisure in Kolkata with many a birthday and anniversary spent at the Alipore address. As it happens the day in Kolkata is the Bangla New Year and I can sense the festivity in the pace of the city as well as in the elaborate buffet lunch at the coffee shop at the Taj. After a sumptuous meal, I decide to burn a few calories in the evening running on the treadmill. Dinner at the private chambers, with personalized butler service! Early next morning we fly Druk Air to Paro, Bhutan. The serene Zen like calm and the unique Dzong architecture hit me almost as soon as I embark my journey to the capital city of Bhutan, Thimpu. An hours drive from Paro International Airport, I set foot into Taj Tashi and feel Bhutan’s mystical presence everywhere. A Lama chants a prayer by the prayer wheel initiating you into the vibrant Mahayana Buddhist tradition. Swirls of hand painted murals of the 'Dhungs' or hornlike musical instruments, 'double dorjes' or 'thunder bolts and clouds' vie for your attention from the walls. My room elegant and luxurious has a large balcony overlooking the majestic mountains and landscapes; pampering me with a private dining in my balcony. A heady concoction of myths, folklore and shopping awaits me just a drive away from my doorstep.

It happens to be my birthday and hence we rush for lunch to the all day dining restaurant Thongsel, followed by a visit to a monastery to light 108 buttered lamps which is considered auspicious. Later we are given blessed prayer flags which are to be tied between two tree tops on a hill top called BBS towers. The wind blows these colorful prayer flags and with the wind flies your destiny is what the locals believe. My driver and personal historian escort me through out the trip to fill me in with about all the mythological tales about the Buddhist and Bhutanese cultures. At 7pm every evening we return to the hotel for our cultural performances by the fire in a mystical setting sipping 'Suja' the country's distinctive salted buttered tea. As I recount the days adventures at Rimp’s, the tea lounge immersing myself in the coffee table books on Bhutan, there is so much of Bhutan to be sampled in the Taj Tashi itself.

Next day we drive to the Semtokha monastery, one of the oldest sanctuaries in Thimpu. Red robed monks, called Lamas, chant here in synchronized groups all day long and it is a sight to sit and watch them pray. The temple walls are mostly painted with natural pigments and have many stories waiting to be told. Jigme, my guide explains the wheel of life, which is a recurring theme for temple murals and other mythological stories painted on these walls. The day is spent visiting many monasteries and off course the Painting school where the sacred Thangka paintings and Mandala paintings of Bhutan live through traditional practice. I acquire an ancient 1000 Buddha Thangka painting at the painting school; my prized possession from Bhutan. We visit the Memorial Stupa, the Handicrafts and culture shops, the textile museum, the Dzong and many other places that immerse you in a rich culture of many centuries. The caste like Dzongs, with their gently tapering walls, classic lines, large courtyards and beautiful galleries are among the finest examples of Bhutanese architecture. Religion has an overwhelming influence in Bhutanese architecture, be it in homes or countless temples and monasteries all over the country. One more experience to note is a visit to the nunery to join them in the 49th day ceremonies of a certain ritual praying for a life that had passed.

Later at dinner at Chig Ja Gye, a specialty cuisine restaurant named after the 108 principal temptations in Buddhism, I sample some local cuisine. Momos, Emam Datshi, Churmpa give in to a spread of fiery Bhutanese cuisine. I learnt from my guide that the trip to Bhutan is incomplete without sampling the local drink Ara which was later brought up to the room by the courtesy of a staff member. Unwinding at the Ara bar at the hotel has its own merits! The chef Rejendra ensured that every meal was customized to my palette in a quintessentially Taj way.

Next morning I trek to the Taktsang in the Paro valley. This is one of the holiest places in Bhutan, as Guru Rinpoche is said to have meditated here in the 8th century. The trek to Taktsang is a 3 hour uphill journey with some breathtaking views and hour and a half back. I went up on horse back and down on foot. After a long day at the Tigers nest monastery the Jiva Spa is the ideal way to recuperate from a tiring day. A heated indoor pool with a Jacuzzi followed by a signature hot stone treatment at Jiva is the quickest way to regain life. The next few days are relaxed at the hotel with some culture and souvenir shopping and the spa. A Visit to the Buddha point, a large 40 meters tall seated deity the present Buddha overlooking the city is must a mention. His presence is overwhelming at this scale.

The highlight of the day is however a private dinner with the Rinpoche, a monk of high order in Thimpu who came to the hotel at our invitation to give us some understanding of Buddhism.

The next morning is a flight back to Kolkata, Jet Airways to Mumbai. A special thanks to Jet Airways is worth a mention for their priority treatment at both Kolkata and Mumbai airports!

To summarize my experience, I would note that as the only Vajrayana Buddhist Kingdom in the world, Bhutan’s ancient culture, arts and religious lineages have been preserved relatively intact. Bhutan is known for being a proponent of 'Gross National Happiness' as opposed to Gross National Product.

Experiencing the Kingdoms unique culture and sacred arts is an opportunity to reflect on issues of globalization, modern materialism and the importance of balance in life.

In the land of the Lamas, magic still lives!!!