Durva's Travel Diaries: In Bhutan, the land of the Lamas, magic still lives!!!

When asked about her most memorable travel experiences, Durva shared these snippets recollecting every bit of it, going back in time. 

Bhutan has rated high on my list of holiday destinations. And so on this birthday, I decided to take off on a one week luxury escapade to the land of the Lamas. My expectations were tempered down right at the Mumbai international airport, when I exchanged notes on Bhutan with Rahul Bose.

My itinerary begins with a day well spent at the Taj Bengal. Taj Bengal has been a sort of second home for me on business and leisure in Kolkata with many a birthday and anniversary spent at the Alipore address. As it happens the day in Kolkata is the Bangla New Year and I can sense the festivity in the pace of the city as well as in the elaborate buffet lunch at the coffee shop at the Taj. After a sumptuous meal, I decide to burn a few calories in the evening running on the treadmill. Dinner at the private chambers, with personalized butler service! Early next morning we fly Druk Air to Paro, Bhutan. The serene Zen like calm and the unique Dzong architecture hit me almost as soon as I embark my journey to the capital city of Bhutan, Thimpu. An hours drive from Paro International Airport, I set foot into Taj Tashi and feel Bhutan’s mystical presence everywhere. A Lama chants a prayer by the prayer wheel initiating you into the vibrant Mahayana Buddhist tradition. Swirls of hand painted murals of the 'Dhungs' or hornlike musical instruments, 'double dorjes' or 'thunder bolts and clouds' vie for your attention from the walls. My room elegant and luxurious has a large balcony overlooking the majestic mountains and landscapes; pampering me with a private dining in my balcony. A heady concoction of myths, folklore and shopping awaits me just a drive away from my doorstep.

It happens to be my birthday and hence we rush for lunch to the all day dining restaurant Thongsel, followed by a visit to a monastery to light 108 buttered lamps which is considered auspicious. Later we are given blessed prayer flags which are to be tied between two tree tops on a hill top called BBS towers. The wind blows these colorful prayer flags and with the wind flies your destiny is what the locals believe. My driver and personal historian escort me through out the trip to fill me in with about all the mythological tales about the Buddhist and Bhutanese cultures. At 7pm every evening we return to the hotel for our cultural performances by the fire in a mystical setting sipping 'Suja' the country's distinctive salted buttered tea. As I recount the days adventures at Rimp’s, the tea lounge immersing myself in the coffee table books on Bhutan, there is so much of Bhutan to be sampled in the Taj Tashi itself.

Next day we drive to the Semtokha monastery, one of the oldest sanctuaries in Thimpu. Red robed monks, called Lamas, chant here in synchronized groups all day long and it is a sight to sit and watch them pray. The temple walls are mostly painted with natural pigments and have many stories waiting to be told. Jigme, my guide explains the wheel of life, which is a recurring theme for temple murals and other mythological stories painted on these walls. The day is spent visiting many monasteries and off course the Painting school where the sacred Thangka paintings and Mandala paintings of Bhutan live through traditional practice. I acquire an ancient 1000 Buddha Thangka painting at the painting school; my prized possession from Bhutan. We visit the Memorial Stupa, the Handicrafts and culture shops, the textile museum, the Dzong and many other places that immerse you in a rich culture of many centuries. The caste like Dzongs, with their gently tapering walls, classic lines, large courtyards and beautiful galleries are among the finest examples of Bhutanese architecture. Religion has an overwhelming influence in Bhutanese architecture, be it in homes or countless temples and monasteries all over the country. One more experience to note is a visit to the nunery to join them in the 49th day ceremonies of a certain ritual praying for a life that had passed. 

Later at dinner at Chig Ja Gye, a specialty cuisine restaurant named after the 108 principal temptations in Buddhism, I sample some local cuisine. Momos, Emam Datshi, Churmpa give in to a spread of fiery Bhutanese cuisine. I learnt from my guide that the trip to Bhutan is incomplete without sampling the local drink Ara which was later brought up to the room by the courtesy of a staff member. Unwinding at the Ara bar at the hotel has its own merits! The chef Rejendra ensured that every meal was customized to my palette in a quintessentially Taj way.

Next morning I trek to the Taktsang in the Paro valley. This is one of the holiest places in Bhutan, as Guru Rinpoche is said to have meditated here in the 8th century. The trek to Taktsang is a 3 hour uphill journey with some breathtaking views and hour and a half back. I went up on horse back and down on foot. After a long day at the Tigers nest monastery the Jiva Spa is the ideal way to recuperate from a tiring day. A heated indoor pool with a Jacuzzi followed by a signature hot stone treatment at Jiva is the quickest way to regain life. The next few days are relaxed at the hotel with some culture and souvenir shopping and the spa. A Visit to the Buddha point, a large 40 meters tall seated deity the present Buddha overlooking the city is must a mention. His presence is overwhelming at this scale.

The highlight of the day is however a private dinner with the Rinpoche, a monk of high order in Thimpu who came to the hotel at our invitation to give us some understanding of Buddhism.

The next morning is a flight back to Kolkata, Jet Airways to Mumbai. A special thanks to Jet Airways is worth a mention for their priority treatment at both Kolkata and Mumbai airports!

To summarize my experience, I would note that as the only Vajrayana Buddhist Kingdom in the world, Bhutan’s ancient culture, arts and religious lineages have been preserved relatively intact. Bhutan is known for being a proponent of 'Gross National Happiness' as opposed to Gross National Product.

Experiencing the Kingdoms unique culture and sacred arts is an opportunity to reflect on issues of globalization, modern materialism and the importance of balance in life.

In the land of the Lamas, magic still lives!!!

Dawn at Taj Tashi, Thimpu, Bhutan

Outdoor Deck at Taj Tashi, Bhutan

Bonfire at the Courtyard, Taj Tashi, Bhutan

Taktsang, Tiger Nest Monastery, Bhutan

Room at Taj Tashi, Bhutan

Durva's Travel Diaries: Venice Biennale en route london!

Durrva, at the entrance of the Venice Bienniale, 2007

Nalini Malani's works at the India Pavilion, Venice Bienniale

Riyas Komu showing at the India Pavilion, Venice Bienniale, 2007

En Route Arsenal & Giardini, Venice

Subodh Gupta's Hungry God installation outside Francoise Pinualt Museum 

Anthony Gormley's Blind Light at the Hayward Gallery, London

A water fountain installation Outside the HAYWARD Gallery, London

Anthony Gormley's Blind Light at the Hayward Gallery, London

Anthony Gormley's Blind Light at the Hayward Gallery, London

Anthony Gormley's Blind Light at the Hayward Gallery, London

Riyas Komu's March of the Petro Angels at the Venice Bienniale!
 

Anthony Gormley's Blind Light at the Hayward Gallery, London

A Walk inside a cloud at The Hayward this summer to Experience a series of newly commissioned, dramatic installations by Antony Gormley, one of the most celebrated artists working in the UK today.

Taking the body as its point of departure, the exhibition is an invitation to embark on a journey through different kinds of space.

Durva also shares some highlights from the Venice Bienniale of 2007 from her trip to Venice!

Durva's Travel Diaries: Maldives

Vivanta Taj Coral Reefs, Maldives

Water Villa,Vivanta 

Water Villa, Vivanta 

Maldives! If there is a paradise on earth, I think it is Maldives. For all us-fun in the sun lovers, there is no better place on earth than Maldives. The luxury of island hopping in your own private chopper, the out of your fantasies   room on the stilts in the water with private access into the sea. The snorkeling and exploring fish and underwater world. This trip change my definition of water for all life. The Vivanta, Taj Coral Reefs resort, with amazing views from your own private island of sands. It is filled with all the luxuries in the world that you could ever imagine. With Mandava spa in the house, open air massages on the beach, open air dining on the sands under the stars with waves coming and touching you gently, cultural performances every night, I think Maldives for me is heaven on earth. From the time you land on this little strip of island called "Male" airport, you are in water. 

Your private jet boat takes you to your atoll, your island. There are 3000 atoll islands in the sea that comprises Maldives. Each island is owned by a hospitality owner and your hotel is your private island from where you see nothing but the sea, the sky and the marine life under you. Watching the crab race one evening was a memorable experience worth a note. Snorkeling, scuba diving and chilling is all you do in Maldives. So for all water babies, this is a piece of heaven and I am surely revisiting Maldives at this one friend's property -  Six Senses Soneva Fushi or Gili, hoping to spot Jennifer Anniston who is said to spend a lot of her quite time here! 

Durva's Travel Diaries: Argentina Here We Come!!!

Durva had promised her travel consultant, an Argentina story on her return of her bespoke experience. To her surprise, the story was carried by Hindustan Times, Conde Nast Traveller, The Crest and Mumbai Mirror amongst others.

Land in Busenos Aires, the city of 'good ari' in Spanish; the city definitely lives up to its name with warm, temperate climate during the day and pleasantly cools in the evenings. Buenos Aires offers a variety of experiences from tango to milonga to some very fine dining experiences. La Viruta is one such milonga where we took a couple of tango classes one night. In uptown Recoleta and Palermothere are many green parks clustered with several restaurants and cafes. The highlight for us here in being a Japanese restaurant was it had a Japanese garden in Recoleta post that had Malba - contemporary Art museum of Buenos Aires that houses the private collection of an Italian collector,Constantin Eduardo. A stunning self portrait of Mexican legendary artist Frida Cahlo highlights this collection amongst many other contemporary art works.

One of the highlights of the five days spent in Buenos Aires, is a visit to the cultural suburb La Bocca.La Bocca is a colorful, cultural experience of a flea market by local artisans and craftsmen with Spanish style architecture and gaucho couples dancing tango on both sides of the streets in cafes with sit outs. The folk music, the tango, the local arts and crafts, La Bocca instantly translates into a memorable moment of the Argentine experience. We experienced a similar flea market in San Telmo’s Sunday market with antique dealers selling silver ware and cutlery, lamps and jewellery from another time is a must do. The tango show ' Senor Tango' is a romantic escape into Argentine culture.

Amongst shopping and art experiences are some very chic brands and galleries in upscale Recoleta, Palermo Viejieo, Chico Palermo, Soho palermo. Restaurants and cafes outline these areas and are also clustered around Puerto Madero- the new developments around the harbor.

From Buenos Aires we land in Iguazu up north and check into our beautiful hotel Loi Suites in the midst of tropical jungle with an Indian concept spa, Namaste. Next morning we are driven to Iuazu National Park to meet with our ecological tour guide for the day, Carla. We trek up many catwalk trials to get some superb views of the Iguazu Falls. The power and magnanimity of the falls when viewed from the Devils throat is truly considered one of the wonders of the world. With 270,000 cubic litres per second volumes of water spread across 2700 meters of width of the falls, makes Iguazu the third largest falls in the world after Niagara and Victoria Falls. We touch the Brazilian border at this point of the falls. Our trek was a combination of some walking trails, some speed boating adventure under the falls, some train rides, a truck drive into the tropical rainforests around the falls and a rubber raft on the river. The power of the Iguazu falls is magnificent! The park adventure ends this evening and we return to our hotel to relax in the many temperature pools.

The next morning we fly to Salta and check into a boutique, conde nast recommended hotel - Legado Mitico with rooms highlighting famous characters of the regions history. We were in an ethnic room called El Wichi. The hotel is situated four blocks away from the city centre 9th of July square and two blocks away from the culinary capital of Salta; the Balcarsi street. The Balcarci Street is famous for its paneas (folk music); each panea with its unique live music and dance through the evening. With livegauchos, song, dance and wine this street brings alive the culture of the region with some fantastic home grown wines from the neighborhood wineries. One of the paneas we recommend is Cafe Del Tiempo (the time cafe) amongst other Andean local peneas.

From Salta we were driven to Cafayate, which is home to a few boutique Spanish wine growing Bodegas with a breathtaking drive through the canyons of the Andes. With red mountain landscape changing formations along the way and blooming cactus trees; this picturesque landscape is part of vary a Latin American outdoor experience. A night spent on the bodega 'wine resort' with some very fine wine tasting and a tour of the local wineries was the highlight of the trip. Some bodegas and their wines worth a mention are from the locally grown Torrentes grapes. Torrentes grapes are found only in this Argentine region and a re-blend of two French grapes. Especially the ones we favored and bought were Elementos Torrentes Dulce natural late harvest from El Esteco Bodega and the Torrentes Tardio from Bodega Nanni - the only organic wine maker in the region and the Porvenir Torrentesdessert wine. These fine wines come with floral fragrance and a fruity bouquet. The late harvest does not need decanting as it has a very short life in the oaks. Back in Salta we learnt to siesta, like the locals.

The flight from Salta to Ushuaia via Buenos Aires offers some great topographical views of the Atlantic Ocean with snow peaked mountain peaks of Patagonia. We are driven to the hotel, Los CauquenesSpa and Resort which is part of the small luxury hotels. The room is overlooking the Beagle Channel; the exact point where the Atlantic Ocean and Pacific Ocean meet; the southern most point of the world, a 1000 km form the Antarctic Circle. Ushuaia is arguably the Southern most tip of the world. There are cruises to Antarctica that depart from here.

An off road day excursion on a 4x4 Lagos in the indigenous forests in the hinterlands of Tierra Del Fuego by exceptionally experienced professional driver/guides marks one of the highlights inUshuaiha. The real fun begins when we leave the sealed road and enter the indigenous tracks from where the expert driver navigates through fallen trees and into portions of the lake where it is shallow on the shoreline. Eventually after some off roading fun we arrive at a small sheltered hut in the middle of the ocean and the forest where fire labeled Argentine wine awaits us with a specially barbequed lunch.

Yet another highlight in Ushuaiha comes with rowing and gliding through the waters of the Beagle Channel on a semi inflatable canoe paddling our way to Gable Island. Gable Island is home to the only nesting colony of almost 3000 Magellenic Penguins in a region of the world that is a 'road less traveled' but well worthy of our experience.

The train to the end of the world called the "the Prison Train" in the penal colony of Ushuaiha is definitely worth a mention. A trip to the Lapataia Bay which is considered the end point of the world touched Chile on one side.

From Ushuaia we flew to El Calafate in northern Patagonia and were driven to our hotel ‘Alto Calafate’to check into our presidential suite with an in house Jacuzzi and the best view of the city. The hotel is owned by the president of the country- Christina de Kircher. It housed a cozy spa with a many hydrotherapeutic massage options and a warm indoor pool with a superb view. 

Next morning we are driven 60 kms to see the region’s largest accessible glacier Pireto Moreno for a two hour trek gear on some beautiful glacier formation in the snow. Mini trek is glimpse of the real snow treks and ended with a glass of scotch and some fine chocolates; truly Swiss style.

Next day we were taken on a navigation safari on a cruise liner Fernando Campbell on the captain’s deck to enjoy some of the best views, privately, on the deck of the five largest glaciers in the worldUpsala, the Spegazzini, the Onelli, the  Seco and the Pireto Moreno glacier. The luxurious cruise gave many Kodak moments and views of unparallel glacier formations melting into water somewhat comparable to massive ice installations. A truly memorable day!

From El Calafate we fly to San Carlos de Bariloche- the Switzerland of Andes. With Ski resorts, spring in full bloom, chocolatires and chocolatire architecture strewn on both side of the streets. On one of the largest lakes Nahuel Huapi, makes Bariloche and Swiss style ski resorts with snow in summer which makes Bariloche an ideal tourist destination in South America. Our hotel Llao Llao which is rated one of the world’s luxurious hotels definitely deserves a special mention. On an island 20 km from the main city of Bariloche with a private 18 hole golf course and full chateau on a lake surrounded by mountains with signature style chocolate massages at the spa and a schedule for classes from yoga, pilates tango, salsa, caminitoes with restaurant and a chapel on house, Llao Llao is truly a luxury adobe.

We drive deeper into the Andes to San Martin through the lake route and arrive at Loi suites, Chapelco Hotel with a spa and golf course. The spa with a signature Shiatze massage and a circulatory hydrotherapy with a private Scottish shower, chill pool, Jacuzzi with a relaxation area over looking the sunset marked a moment in our suits in a Loi suits. A drive to the Chile border through the Andes mountain range and afternoon hike to a beautiful water fall ended in the evening.

From San Martin we fly to Bueno Aires for our last day in the city to relive some of our experiences before boarding South American Airways flight to Bombay via Johannesburg.

In Beunisairs we decide to stay at Faeena in Peurato Mader and revisit Bengal our favorite Indian restaurant in Beunisairs followed by a flight to Tango. There we revisit La Bocca to end our trip and take back some wonderful memories of Argentina!!!

Doing Tango La boca at Beunos Aires

The view from the room at Argentina
Los Cauquenes

Durva's Travel Diaries: Exotic Getaway to Alibaug

Mandara Spa, Alibaug

As you all know already that I am an absolute spa sucker and I like to rejuvenate myself on a regular basis, I love visiting spas and spend some "me" time. For such a relaxing getaway, I had been to the Radission Resort and Spa, Alibaug. It is the first Mandara Spa of Thailand which brings with it the legendary magic of unique and exotic spa treatments that reflect the beauty, spirit and traditions of the ancient times and the soul and ritual of Asian culture.

Exotic, extremely relaxing, filled with the serenity of the Mandara Spa surrounded by beautifully landscaped gardens and water bodies, making it a perfect getaway to unwind from the stresses of day to day life. The Mandara treatments take place in the spaciously designed spa rooms where, tasteful artwork blends with the classic elegance of contemporary design suites, which are complete with private showers, changing rooms with spacious designated vanity areas. I had the choice of different treatments to pamper myself which include a variety of massage styles, seaweed, mud or herbal body wraps, facials, salt scrubs, aromatherapy, reflexology and a selection of freshwater baths. However, noisy Radission Resort and Spa could not live up to the expectations of Mandara Spa. 

Durva's Travel Diaries: Chennai and Pondicherry

Taj Connemara happens to be a second home in Chennai on my many business and leisure trips to this city. Chennai has been a stopover for many trips to Pondicherry that holds a special place in my heart. The sun and the sea, the warmth and the energy, the French influence on the architecture and the people combines together into a complete delight. Pondicherry has many great places to stay and eat. Amongst some of my favorites are Del Orient, Promenade, Dupleix and the Park Guest House. The Park Guest house is an austere choice compared to the others but has its own charm. The ashram and the Samadhi are a great way to immerse oneself in the powerful energy centers in the region. With the Matri Mandir, a golden globe of a massive structure designed in a futuristic way and Auroville, a few kilometers away makes Pondicherry and ideal base for long and short days.

Auroville of-course has its own guest houses run by Aurovillians. Tineke's Center guest house has some fond memories with Italian chef making oven baked pizzas every evening for dinner. Dining and organic shopping options are many in Auroville. Fruit extracts and incense are quite popular at Solar kitchen and visitor's center. A hibiscus fruit extract called 'power group' is known for its revitalizing properties. A trip to Pondicherry and Auroville is incomplete without a mention of the mother and Sri Aurobindo, beings of the highest order who lived and practiced their yoga here and brought integral yoga to the world. Their presence is still felt here. I have felt rejuvenated from almost every visit to this lovely fun in the sun place! En route to Pondicherry from Chennai, is the Taj Fisherman's cove, a beach cottage resort in Mahabalipuram. I remember a birthday spent at fisherman's cove which is worth remembering. 

Taj Connemara, Chennai

Matrimandir, Auroville

Durva's Travel Diaries: Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is a little version of Kerala and has been on my route several times in the last few years. Shopping in Colombo is so much fun. Shanth Fernando's Paradise Road stores across Colombo seem to be on my hot favorite list.  I have had some wonderful times at Taj Samudra and on different occasions I have had the luxury of staying at different hotels. One of those that comes to my mind is Havelock Bunglows- a boutique hotel that was converted into a hotel from an old colonial home. Havelock Bunglows is a great address, but my favorite stay in Colombo is the Hyatt which is a brand new hotel and very delightful to live in. It houses Senaka Senanayake's gallery. A memorable visit to this biggest Sri Lankan artist's residence to acquire a work of his is afresh in my mind till date. One of my visits in Sri Lanka happens to be on my way to Maldives. During a week in Sri Lanka, I was driven and escorted by a guide all the way from Colombo to Candy where the tallest Buddha deity till date rests on the top of the hill and then, from Candy we had driven to Nuwara Eliya, a tea plantation on the top of the hills. A stay at the Tea factory is the best way to sample the local tea flavors. 

From Nuwara Eliya we had driven to Bentota and then stayed there at the Eden Spa and resort which is a lovely place to live. Though, my favorite as I realized later after a few visits is The Taj Exotica, Bentota. Driving past Galle, you get to see such amazing art and antique shops that tempt you to walk in. The greenery and the scenic views accompany you all accross your trip. Worth a mention is Jeoffrey Bawa's famous hotel 'Kandalama' where I had spent a few days. A tree house built into the valley, you could have a tree trunk right in your room at this hotel. With an infinity pool, a concept in pool architecture that was first found in this famous architect, Kandalama also has a spa which is a must visit.

The next time I had visited Srilanka, was when I had gone to spend a birthday week with my husband who was working in Colombo for an extended period of a month. So we had traveled in and around Sri Lanka once again, this time different routes and different hotels and different experience! 

Taj Exotica, Bentota, Sri Lanka

Sigiriya Caves, Sri Lanka

Taj Samudra, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Durva's Travel Diaries: New Zealand

Feeding the Sheep outside our cottage at Broekhaven, Rotorua

Zorbing at Rotorua

Landing in the Glaciers on our private chopper, Franz Joseph

Quad Biking in the Glacier terrain, Fox Glacier

Cycling on the Lake, Wannaka

Milford Sounds

Cruise on Milford Sounds

On the cruise in Milford Sounds

Milford Sounds

Feeding the Alpaca, on our private Golf Course

Outside our hilltop cottage

Riding the Pennyfarthing Bicycle

Atop our private Hill

A picture perfect Cloud

                                                                             
Half the fun in New Zealand is on the road, they say. So we drove this whole month trip starting from Auckland Bay Islands in the North Island all down to Christchurch in the South Island. New Zealand is a nature and adventure lover's paradise. In scenic beauty, it far surpasses most parts of Europe and the thrills and adventures here are like nowhere else in the world. One of the highlights in the Bay Islands is a sky diving experience. Jumping down from a plane 12,000 feet above sea level took some gumption and the the two minutes or so in free fall made you feel like your life was going to end. But after that with 360 degree view of the green hills on all the sides, more than makes up for the free fall fright! I think it taught me how to die. Back to the Appledore Lodge within the green hillscape with own private outdoor Jacuzzi and heated outdoor pool in the hills,n this one is highly recommended.

After a few days of idling in the Appledore lodge we drive on to Rotorua, the adventure capital of the world. We check into this Brookhaven Cottage with a sheep farm in our cottage. You can feed the sheep, lambs they are called to take you back to to the days of Mary's little lamb. I believe that fairy tales and Cartoon Network must have been inspired by the landscapes of New Zealand. In Rotorua, I go "Zorbing". You can "Zorb". Zorbing is when you are thrown into a huge transparent inflated rubber ball and then they roll the ball and throw you with it down the green hill. So, you go up and down in it. But this experience is a must! Next we go on a high powered jet boat that makes spins along the lake that make you spin. But in the pristine beauty of New Zealand, all is fun! We then drive to Wanaka, the lake town and with each passing town, the landscape changes. Next couple of days in Wanaka, cycling on the lake and getting absorbed in the beauty around was very refreshing.

Then we drove to the South Island and came for the most memorable home stay. Our hosts Susan and Joseph own a farmland and also most of the hill. At the top we had sheep, lambs, a lovely luxurious home with Jacuzzi in our room and it was a great place to just relax and be. This well manicured hill with our own private golf course is by far, one of the nicest on this top. Then we drive off to Franz Josef and Fox glaciers, the two glaciers in the south Island. In a private chopper, we fly up to get a bird's eye view of the glaciers and then land on the Franz Joseph glacier. A moment to record. We spend a few hours playing in the snow untill we return to our Tree Lodge Hotel. In Christchurch, we love off the main square and then return by flight to Auckland before taking off for Mumbai. On route I stop over in Honk Kong for a week well spent at the Park Hotel by myself, shopping, meeting galleries and exploring business opportunities.